Stephanie and I have been in India for four days now, moving at a fast and furious pace. Delhi, to our surprise, was fogged in and cold, weather that I wasn't exactly prepared for. Stephanie quickly bought three shawls and we managed to keep fairly comfortable with those. Our first full day in India found us on a cold, rainy and foggy drive to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. It was three hours by car to get there and then five hours back because we hit rush hour traffic everywhere. Every manner of vehicle competes for space on the roads here, the most ubiquitous are the motorized rickshaws that are usually crammed to frightening capacity.
The Taj was gorgous, but hard to photograph becuase of the fog. It's a white marble building and there was very little contrast with the sky, so I hope I can compensate in Photoshop when I get back. The Taj was very crowded, but there were very few foreigners. Stephanie was quite a hit there, with many people stopping to ask to take a photograph with her. It was like travelling with a celebrity. Apparently they don't see a lot of black people there!
Now we are in Udaipur at the Taj Hotel, the former summer palace of the king. It's pretty darn spectacular and we spent a fun new years eve here with a big party in the courtyard outside of our room and a fireworks show at night from the roof garden. We finally recovered from jet lag last night, both of us having enjoyed a nine hours rest! Today we are imaging ourselves to be royalty, lounging around the palace, but we are off again this afternoon to head to Pondicherry where we will spend two nights. It's warm and sunny here during the day, but cold at night, so we are looking forward to going further south where we expect it to be warm all the time. Of course, down there the mosquito problem will be worse. I'm not looking forward to lathering on DEET all day and night, and I'll start my malarie medication soon too. So far we are both happy and healthy and hope to stay that way.
More from Pondicherry and pictures too, soon!
Friday, December 31, 2010
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Things that have surprised me here in Korea
The security deposit on apartment rentals is unbelievable. One of the trainers I worked with who has lived in Seoul for more than thirteen years paid $80,000 for his deposit. Yes, that's US dollars, not South Korean Won (I think that would translate into 80,000,000,000 Won). And the landlord gets to keep all the interest! His rent on a three bedroom condo is $500 a month because he paid such a high deposit, so the more deposit you pay the less rent you pay. Still the average required deposit, I read, is around $20,000.
There is no tipping here. And I love that. Not in restaurants, taxis, hotels, anywhere. It makes things so much easier, but I wonder if the wages service workers earn is sufficient...okay, that's probably just wishful thinking. Except for the cost of housing, the lifestyle here isn't too expensive. I did run into a interesting group of protesters in the downtown subway station in Daegu, who had this maxim in English as the logo of their pink t-shirts - Capitalism Isn't Working.
Roughly three quarters of energy production here is nuclear. Korea has a huge number of nuclear power plants, more than any other country in the world. Somewhere under 200, I believe.
Korean high school students typically attend two schools each day. Their regular day school and then an evening school. Most students go to school until around 10:00 PM. No kidding. That works out to be two eight-hour school days.... a day. The teachers I worked with said they don't ever give homework because their students have no time to do it since they continue school until the late evening. The second schools, I think, focus on preparing students for the national exams they need to pass to get into university. And everyone, except kids from really poor families, attend second schools. As I walked around Daegu with my fellow trainers, they often pointed to lights on in school buildings late at night where students were attending classes. And this is summer vacation for them.
Religion: There is one mosque in Daegu, but a number of them in Seoul, mostly to serve the South East and South Asian populations. There are a lot of churches though and the crosses they display on their steeples glow neon red at night. It's eery to see them all poking up on the night landscape.
The amount of retail stores, outlets and small businesses here is astounding. And many of them are underground. In fact, Seoul boasts the largest underground mall in the world. The biggest market in Seoul sports more than 10,000 retail businesses.
The streets here are so grand, 8 lanes typically, that to cross them one has to go into the underground malls. It's tricky if you don't recognize the businesses listed on the "Way Out" arrow signage. I have gone up and down into the malls many times trying to figure out how to get to up to the corner I need. This was also true in downtown Deagu as well.
I've seen disabled people asking for money at some of the Metro entrances, one very drunk man and another who seemed to be hearing voices in my two and a half days in Seoul.
Korea invented LCD screens, and they are ubiquitous here. Giant LCD screens are mounted all over town featuring.... advertisements. The one outside of my hotel room is really irritating. It's about five stories high. Also, there are TV monitors everywhere -- In the Metro stations, in the gym, in the shower area at the bath house, on the buses and trains and stations, in restaurants...everywhere.
Oh my, time to start packing. I take off this evening for home. See you all soon!
There is no tipping here. And I love that. Not in restaurants, taxis, hotels, anywhere. It makes things so much easier, but I wonder if the wages service workers earn is sufficient...okay, that's probably just wishful thinking. Except for the cost of housing, the lifestyle here isn't too expensive. I did run into a interesting group of protesters in the downtown subway station in Daegu, who had this maxim in English as the logo of their pink t-shirts - Capitalism Isn't Working.
Roughly three quarters of energy production here is nuclear. Korea has a huge number of nuclear power plants, more than any other country in the world. Somewhere under 200, I believe.
Korean high school students typically attend two schools each day. Their regular day school and then an evening school. Most students go to school until around 10:00 PM. No kidding. That works out to be two eight-hour school days.... a day. The teachers I worked with said they don't ever give homework because their students have no time to do it since they continue school until the late evening. The second schools, I think, focus on preparing students for the national exams they need to pass to get into university. And everyone, except kids from really poor families, attend second schools. As I walked around Daegu with my fellow trainers, they often pointed to lights on in school buildings late at night where students were attending classes. And this is summer vacation for them.
Religion: There is one mosque in Daegu, but a number of them in Seoul, mostly to serve the South East and South Asian populations. There are a lot of churches though and the crosses they display on their steeples glow neon red at night. It's eery to see them all poking up on the night landscape.
The amount of retail stores, outlets and small businesses here is astounding. And many of them are underground. In fact, Seoul boasts the largest underground mall in the world. The biggest market in Seoul sports more than 10,000 retail businesses.
The streets here are so grand, 8 lanes typically, that to cross them one has to go into the underground malls. It's tricky if you don't recognize the businesses listed on the "Way Out" arrow signage. I have gone up and down into the malls many times trying to figure out how to get to up to the corner I need. This was also true in downtown Deagu as well.
I've seen disabled people asking for money at some of the Metro entrances, one very drunk man and another who seemed to be hearing voices in my two and a half days in Seoul.
Korea invented LCD screens, and they are ubiquitous here. Giant LCD screens are mounted all over town featuring.... advertisements. The one outside of my hotel room is really irritating. It's about five stories high. Also, there are TV monitors everywhere -- In the Metro stations, in the gym, in the shower area at the bath house, on the buses and trains and stations, in restaurants...everywhere.
Oh my, time to start packing. I take off this evening for home. See you all soon!
Seoul!
I made it to Seoul on Friday and have spent the weekend exploring. There is definitely plenty to do in this city of 10 million (25 million, they say, if you consider the greater Seoul Area), particularly if you like shopping. Traffic here is always congested so I've been getting around on the Metro, which is cheap ($1.00 to all destinations) and pretty easy to navigate, once you get the hang of it. There are station assistants everywhere and when you can't find one, all you have to do is hold your map and look perplexed and within minutes a Korean angel will appear to offer assistance.
I've also finally had time to download and sort photographs from Deagu and surrounds and have posted them on the Korea links side bar to the right. Soon to be posted photos from Seoul. Oh boy.
I've also finally had time to download and sort photographs from Deagu and surrounds and have posted them on the Korea links side bar to the right. Soon to be posted photos from Seoul. Oh boy.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Things I've noticed in Korea
Koreans are stylish dressers for the most part. Young women wear skimpy skirts and shorts, but seem to raise the bar at the midriff. Not even a hint of a belly here.
Young couples often dress like twins - same outfits. It's cute, I suppose.
There is nary a single white hair anywhere here. Well among the women. I've seem some gray haired men, but not a lot. My friend Jin Young has commented on my locks a number of times. What color your hair? Oh, you must cut your hair!
Rapid industrialization has catapulted this country into first world status in the last 40 years, and the effects on Korean physique are marked. Young people here are pretty tall, and even big boned. Some of that change could be the effect of US military bases here for 60 years, but improved nutrition certainly plays a significant role.
Daegu is a city of 2.5 million crowded with high rise apartments, wide avenues, numerous chic shopping districts, health centers, and all the other amenities one would wish for, but at the same time tiny grandmothers sell produce on street corners, and there are open air and pavilion-type markets everywhere, full of micro-businesses and food stalls one sees in developing countries everywhere.
There are a lot of missionaries here in Daegu. I've been approached so many times. Hi, are you Christian? And their English is so good. Today I met one at the health club who had lived in Chicago for 6 years while her husband studied the ministry. She was quite pleasant and didn't seem shocked by my brief lecture on the rapid growth of atheists like me in the US.
You can get good fresh vegetables and fruit everywhere which makes me so happy that I have a kitchen.
Restaurants tend to specialize in particular kinds of dishes, so it sometimes takes a long time to find the kind of food you feel like eating. I've walked for more than an hour with my ex-pat colleagues trying to find a place to eat.
Costco is here in Korea and so is the YMCA. Too bad I left my cards at home.
The subway is clean and modern and easy to navigate and it only costs $1 to go anywhere on the line.
Young couples often dress like twins - same outfits. It's cute, I suppose.
There is nary a single white hair anywhere here. Well among the women. I've seem some gray haired men, but not a lot. My friend Jin Young has commented on my locks a number of times. What color your hair? Oh, you must cut your hair!
Rapid industrialization has catapulted this country into first world status in the last 40 years, and the effects on Korean physique are marked. Young people here are pretty tall, and even big boned. Some of that change could be the effect of US military bases here for 60 years, but improved nutrition certainly plays a significant role.
Daegu is a city of 2.5 million crowded with high rise apartments, wide avenues, numerous chic shopping districts, health centers, and all the other amenities one would wish for, but at the same time tiny grandmothers sell produce on street corners, and there are open air and pavilion-type markets everywhere, full of micro-businesses and food stalls one sees in developing countries everywhere.
There are a lot of missionaries here in Daegu. I've been approached so many times. Hi, are you Christian? And their English is so good. Today I met one at the health club who had lived in Chicago for 6 years while her husband studied the ministry. She was quite pleasant and didn't seem shocked by my brief lecture on the rapid growth of atheists like me in the US.
You can get good fresh vegetables and fruit everywhere which makes me so happy that I have a kitchen.
Restaurants tend to specialize in particular kinds of dishes, so it sometimes takes a long time to find the kind of food you feel like eating. I've walked for more than an hour with my ex-pat colleagues trying to find a place to eat.
Costco is here in Korea and so is the YMCA. Too bad I left my cards at home.
The subway is clean and modern and easy to navigate and it only costs $1 to go anywhere on the line.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Coming up for Air
I have just completed week two of the training program. Wow.
All the teacher trainees and trainers went out for lunch today to celebrate the completion of Week Two. We went to a restaurant nearby the school, each homeroom group in its own room, with Korean-style seating, i.e., floor seating. Though the food was excellent, the continuous throbbing and numbing sensations that radiated through my legs throughout the two hour lunch, made the whole event pretty darned tortuous pour moi. Though the topic of my discomfort (which I initiated a number of times, though I wasn't the only one to do so) was discussed a number of times, I'm pretty sure I heard them tell the restuarant staff on the way out that we would all be back on Tuesday.
We have thirty-three middle and secondary school teachers in the three week intensive program. On the first day we conducted a number of ice breaking activities so that we could observe them and figure out how to organize them into three groups. We decided to group them by personality characteristics rather than language proficiency levels to ensure maximum participation by all teachers. We ended up with Tigers and Mice at the extreme ends of the spectrum, and Middle People in the ... middle. I am the Mice Homeroom trainer which means that I meet with them for a half an hour every day for warm up activities, checks in, reflective journaling, announcements and such. We have formed strong bonds over these last two weeks, particularly through the journal writing and I look forward to seeing them each day. I actually like all of the teacher trainees, even the somewhat difficult ones, and have found this experience overall to be very enriching. We four trainers have also developed strong bonds and I already anticipate missing our time together now that it's coming to a close.
All the teacher trainees and trainers went out for lunch today to celebrate the completion of Week Two. We went to a restaurant nearby the school, each homeroom group in its own room, with Korean-style seating, i.e., floor seating. Though the food was excellent, the continuous throbbing and numbing sensations that radiated through my legs throughout the two hour lunch, made the whole event pretty darned tortuous pour moi. Though the topic of my discomfort (which I initiated a number of times, though I wasn't the only one to do so) was discussed a number of times, I'm pretty sure I heard them tell the restuarant staff on the way out that we would all be back on Tuesday.
We have thirty-three middle and secondary school teachers in the three week intensive program. On the first day we conducted a number of ice breaking activities so that we could observe them and figure out how to organize them into three groups. We decided to group them by personality characteristics rather than language proficiency levels to ensure maximum participation by all teachers. We ended up with Tigers and Mice at the extreme ends of the spectrum, and Middle People in the ... middle. I am the Mice Homeroom trainer which means that I meet with them for a half an hour every day for warm up activities, checks in, reflective journaling, announcements and such. We have formed strong bonds over these last two weeks, particularly through the journal writing and I look forward to seeing them each day. I actually like all of the teacher trainees, even the somewhat difficult ones, and have found this experience overall to be very enriching. We four trainers have also developed strong bonds and I already anticipate missing our time together now that it's coming to a close.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Settling in Daegu
Today I joined a health club in the neighborhood. Signing up was pretty hilarious because all of my communication with Koreans, beyond "Hello" and "Thank you", is totally non-verbal. I felt I had already had quite a work out by the time I had successfully communicated that I didn't want swimming (the staff didn't recognize the butterfly stroke so I had to demonstrate lap swimming and diving too), but rather wanted to ride a bike, and run on the treadmill, and lift weights.
After all that I was so desperate for verbal communication that I accosted a group of elementary school girls on their way out of the shower/sauna (who I figured would both know some English and want to practice it) to share a few words. We became instant friends, chatting about the pool on the fifth floor and the showers and suana, and school and vacation and we promised to meet up again tomorrow.
Finally I made it into the exercise room and hopped on a stationary bike and proceeded to madly and indiscriminatley press buttons to get some reaction from the bike, to no avail. After working up another big sweat, it dawned on me that the big white sign on the screen of the bike probably meant the bike wasn't functioning. After I hopped on the one next to me, the man on my left looked over and helpfully confirmed in English, "That bike there is out of order." Taking him as a congenial type, I then pestered him to show me how to operate the controls on my new bike, and I within minutes I was off and cycling.
A few minutes after I had selected the podcast I wanted to listen to on my iPod, Sung, Jin Young, came up to me with a wide smile, wondering about the device I had in my hand and ears. She and I then proceeded to go through all the features of my iPod, lingering for awhile over a Frontline video podcast of a new music sensation in Iceland...sharing my headset and bee-bopping together to the music for a good five minutes. She clamored onto the bike next to me after awhile and we proceeded to shout to each other over the sound system in the gym, sharing information and thoughts about age, work, religion and such. After about ten minutes she got off her bike and said she didn't really like the bikes, but had just wanted to come over for a chat. We promised to meet up again tomorrow too.
Of course, I adore the Korean public bath scene in the sauna/shower area, so I'm quite pleased with my accomplishment today and look forward to going back tomorrow to work out and meet up with all my new Korean pals.
After all that I was so desperate for verbal communication that I accosted a group of elementary school girls on their way out of the shower/sauna (who I figured would both know some English and want to practice it) to share a few words. We became instant friends, chatting about the pool on the fifth floor and the showers and suana, and school and vacation and we promised to meet up again tomorrow.
Finally I made it into the exercise room and hopped on a stationary bike and proceeded to madly and indiscriminatley press buttons to get some reaction from the bike, to no avail. After working up another big sweat, it dawned on me that the big white sign on the screen of the bike probably meant the bike wasn't functioning. After I hopped on the one next to me, the man on my left looked over and helpfully confirmed in English, "That bike there is out of order." Taking him as a congenial type, I then pestered him to show me how to operate the controls on my new bike, and I within minutes I was off and cycling.
A few minutes after I had selected the podcast I wanted to listen to on my iPod, Sung, Jin Young, came up to me with a wide smile, wondering about the device I had in my hand and ears. She and I then proceeded to go through all the features of my iPod, lingering for awhile over a Frontline video podcast of a new music sensation in Iceland...sharing my headset and bee-bopping together to the music for a good five minutes. She clamored onto the bike next to me after awhile and we proceeded to shout to each other over the sound system in the gym, sharing information and thoughts about age, work, religion and such. After about ten minutes she got off her bike and said she didn't really like the bikes, but had just wanted to come over for a chat. We promised to meet up again tomorrow too.
Of course, I adore the Korean public bath scene in the sauna/shower area, so I'm quite pleased with my accomplishment today and look forward to going back tomorrow to work out and meet up with all my new Korean pals.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Teaching in Daegu
Well, I'm at the mid-week point of the first week of my teacher training adventure in Daegu, suffering from serious sensory and cognitive overload, but happy nonetheless. For one, I'm overjoyed that I am managing the heat well. It's not as humid as I feared, and the evenings have even been breezy and pleasant. The first days of teaching were spent in an ever-so-polite tug of war with teachers over control of the air-conditioner. At first the teachers disarmed me by their sweet requests to turn it off for awhile, which I of course Had to agree to; however, less then ten minutes later, I, in turn, politely asked Them if I could turn it on again, and so the dance went.
On Day Two both sides began to employ guerilla tactics...They sent Ninja-types over to lower the cool air output, while their comrades (thought) they were distracting me. I then quickly, engaged them in an activity, and dashed back to raise the temperature. Happily, I finally solved the problem by reconfiguring the classroom, which positioned me directly in front of the massive air-conditioner (they are taller than and almost as wide as refrigerators), and the teachers at a comfortable enough distance so that it no longer is an issue.
The only other thing that I want to report now, is that, as I had hoped, the UCC Training Center has those cool high-tech toilets I've read about. I'll wait to share That gentile story with those who are interested when I get home. Off now to plan tomorrow's lesson.
On Day Two both sides began to employ guerilla tactics...They sent Ninja-types over to lower the cool air output, while their comrades (thought) they were distracting me. I then quickly, engaged them in an activity, and dashed back to raise the temperature. Happily, I finally solved the problem by reconfiguring the classroom, which positioned me directly in front of the massive air-conditioner (they are taller than and almost as wide as refrigerators), and the teachers at a comfortable enough distance so that it no longer is an issue.
The only other thing that I want to report now, is that, as I had hoped, the UCC Training Center has those cool high-tech toilets I've read about. I'll wait to share That gentile story with those who are interested when I get home. Off now to plan tomorrow's lesson.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Greetings from Daegu, Korea
I am writing this post from my studio apartment in Daegu, two blocks from the college where I will be teaching. I thought I would be living in the dorms, so I am thrilled to have my own place, where I can prepare my own meals and have peace and quiet when I need it. I am, in fact, right now enjoying a deliciously rich cup of Peets Coffee that I brought from home - the first good coffee I've had since I arrived. Two trainers working for the same organization but on different projects have apartments on my floor, so there is company and assistance when I need that too.
I will spend three weeks here in Daegu delivering a teacher training course to high school English teachers. There are three other trainers on my team, with a total of 33 public school teachers in the program. We will divide the teachers into three cohorts so that we will have 11 or so in each group. The teachers will rotate through our classes daily. The teaching schedule is heavy - 9:00 to 4:00, but I'll do the same lesson three times in a day, and there is time for journal writing and warm up activities at both ends of the day. In the evenings I'l have to read and respond to the journals and prepare the next day's lesson, so I imagine my time here will fly by.
Blessedly, the heat isn't so bad yet (They say Daegu is the hottest place in Korea in summer). It's rainy season, so that cools it down a bit. I do have the air conditioning running all day when I'm here, but I can turn it off at night. So, so far - so good!
I was woken up this morning at 3:30 by a couple clanking down the stairs - I wonder where they were going at that hour? And about a half an hour later again, by a guy who seemed to be playing a radio at maximum volume as he clammered down the stairs and onto a motorcycle. So that was the end of my night. Oh well, lots to do today (Sunday) get food, by a towel, tour the neighborhood, get to a meeting this evening and prepare for tomorrow. Oh, boy!
I will spend three weeks here in Daegu delivering a teacher training course to high school English teachers. There are three other trainers on my team, with a total of 33 public school teachers in the program. We will divide the teachers into three cohorts so that we will have 11 or so in each group. The teachers will rotate through our classes daily. The teaching schedule is heavy - 9:00 to 4:00, but I'll do the same lesson three times in a day, and there is time for journal writing and warm up activities at both ends of the day. In the evenings I'l have to read and respond to the journals and prepare the next day's lesson, so I imagine my time here will fly by.
Blessedly, the heat isn't so bad yet (They say Daegu is the hottest place in Korea in summer). It's rainy season, so that cools it down a bit. I do have the air conditioning running all day when I'm here, but I can turn it off at night. So, so far - so good!
I was woken up this morning at 3:30 by a couple clanking down the stairs - I wonder where they were going at that hour? And about a half an hour later again, by a guy who seemed to be playing a radio at maximum volume as he clammered down the stairs and onto a motorcycle. So that was the end of my night. Oh well, lots to do today (Sunday) get food, by a towel, tour the neighborhood, get to a meeting this evening and prepare for tomorrow. Oh, boy!
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